Camino Gratitude Portugal

Sleep eluded me last night, leaving me weary as I trudged through morning rain. My decision to book an albergue nearly a mile from the Camino trail was a miscalculation the moment I studied the town map—a detour that my tired legs silently protested.
The albergue stood eerily quiet, devoid of fellow pilgrims, though not entirely uninhabited. A small colony of cats patrolled the courtyard, their meows soliciting both food and affection. Despite my fatigue, the evening transformed into remarkable when the owner invited me to share a meal.
As we dined in his centuries-old stone kitchen, he recounted the storied history of his home—once a royal residence belonging to the King and Queen of Portugal. The weathered beams above us had witnessed hundreds of years of conversation. I listened to his stories, asked questions, and was fully present. Some treasures of the Camino, aren’t found on the trail itself.
This morning brought an unexpected gift in the form of Lee, a British high school teacher and surfer from Cornwall, who was drinking coffee when we met. More philosopher than hiker, Lee filled our miles with reflections from his journal—material he hopes to shape into a book about service, desire and love.
“Love is a profound connection and acceptance that expands our capacity for empathy, compromise, and growth.” His voice carried above the crunch of our boots on gravel.
Lee spoke of mindfulness with the easy authority of someone who has tested theories against reality. “Living in the present moment isn’t just important—it’s essential, travel lightly, open yourself to the wonder of each encounter. Ground your day in gratitude.”
His words resonated with my own evolving pilgrim’s philosophy: rely on those who share the journey, and be reliable in return. Greet each new day with generosity, curiosity, and trust. The fruit is in the process, not the arrival.
By day’s end, we accumulated 46,000 wet, muddy steps. My body ached, but my mind felt curiously clear. I remembered Søren Kierkegaard’s wisdom: “Above all, do not lose your desire to walk. Every day, I walk myself into a state of well-being and walk away from illness. I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it. Thus if one just keeps on walking, everything will be all right.”
Tonight, despite the distance still ahead, I believe him.
Buen Camino!